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From the moment the Milan-based outerwear specialist first unveiled Moncler 1952 as part of its Genius project – an explosion of creative energy that initially saw eight designers reimagine its iconic down-filled outerwear – back in 2018, its focus has been on reimagining Moncler for a new generation. While the Genius line-up is continually evolving, Sergio Zambon and Veronica Leoni have remained as a constant, forever reimagining the archive, adopting new technologies and pushing possibilities.
Taking its name from the year in which the outerwear specialist was established in a small village in the Haute Savoie mountains, 2 Moncler 1952 is reflective of the form and function at the heart of the brand, while redefining and repositioning it in the context of the present and near-future. For its autumn/winter 21 menswear collection, Egypt-born multitasker Sergio Zambon looked at the city of Tokyo for inspiration, delving beyond the concrete bones of the hyper-kinetic metropolis and into its soft center, where an environmental consciousness softens the frenetic pace of modern life. The resulting collection aims to define a new comfort zone, bringing the spirit of rest out of the domestic environment and into public life. To better navigate unfamiliar surroundings and add local knowledge to the line-up, Zambon worked with two cult Tokyo-based brands, the haute hiking label And Wander and performance footwear specialists Suicoke.
After months in lockdown, our everyday-at-home reality has helped many of us see the power of cosy wear and this collection of 2 Moncler 1952 encourages us to push it that bit more as we adjust to this “new normal”. As knitted tracksuits are meant for outside eyes, trousers ribbed, skirts wrapped as if they were towels, ponchos have duvet hems, and slippers designed for pavement pounding, the idea of resting in the open is central to the collection. The looks are pop in their vibrant immediacy, yet clean in design, and naturally genderless. As Zambon focusses his anthropologist eye, the collection has a Japanese metropolitan feel that starts in total black with unexpected quilting patterns, before moving to the hyper-technicality of light-reflective puffers and evolves to mis-assortments of greens and a saturation of bright hues, including pink, arranged in vivid juxtapositions. The marriage of Moncler’s performance and a fashion-forward mindset happens in a natural way with subtle twists, in a proliferation of nylons, technical organza, cottons, ribbed knits. Accessories include teddy hats, caps with outsized pompons, hammered leather lace ups, quilted slippers and sandals developed with Suicoke, padded bags and bum bags.
While the global pandemic encouraged Zambon to outfit a new comfort zone, bringing the spirit of rest out of the domestic environment into public life, the 2 Moncler 1952 women’s collection designed by Veronica Leoni explores the power of dualism. The starting point of the Rome-born, Jil Sander and old Céline-trained talent’s work is conceptual, but the result is playfully wearable. Her new Moncler Genius collection is dominated by the opposite, as an innate need for reassurance and a wild urge for escapism. She crafted her collection based around her dualistic soul, finding beauty within her personal confliction as she simultaneously felt grounded, and daydreamed of escape. The collection sticks to the most authentic Moncler values but twists the brand’s vocabulary in new directions, at once unabashedly feminine and pragmatic, extravagant and clean, bold and spontaneous.